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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.